Seoul has something for everyone, and I hope you enjoy your time in this city I call home. In 2017’s edition of “Things to do in Seoul,” I have added pro tips and expanded this list to 80 items. I visit most of these places yearly to make sure the advice still stands, so rest assured, you’ve got some solid recommendations coming your way. Anyways, let’s begin the countdown.
[The map below is accurate to the front door of every location. Also, Korean writing has been used in case you need to search it in a Korean maps app (Google maps rarely works).]
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[Note – Due to how massive this post is, I had no choice but to split it up into multiple pages. You can navigate further along at the bottom of every page.]
#80-61
80) Silim-dong Gosichon / 신림동 고시촌
Silim-dong is important in more recent history as a testament to the competitive atmosphere that is present in modern Korea. From the 1980s to the early 2000s, this area of Seoul was built up with thousands of tiny habitations for students studying for anything from university entrance exams to exams required for government positions. While the build-up has contracted in the last decade, walk around and you can still see “goshiwons” proudly display the accomplishments of their most recent residents. The food is also excellent in this area!
Pro Tip – Really want to experience this and have a lot of time in your hands? Maybe rent a koshiwon/goshiwon for a month or two. While they are a bit depressing and cramped, they are perfect for those looking to stay a bit longer than a week or two.
79) Daegaksa / 대각사
This very modest temple located adjacent to Jongmyo has some wonderful paintings on its recently refurbished buildings. What sets it apart, however, it its historical importance as the “mecca of the Independence Movement, on March 1st, 1911” as it is proudly displayed on a plaque near the front gate. From here, the head monks and local resistance leaders spoke out for an independent Korea and an end to the Japanese Occupation which was barely getting warmed up.
Pro Tip – To really appreciate this place, it helps to read up on the March 1st, 1911 movement as there are no translations on site.
78) Hyehwamun Gate / Dongsomun / 혜화문
Located in my very own back yard is the Hyehwa Gate. This massive doorway was used as an auxiliary entrance to the much more popular Dongdaemun Gate. Although it is quite easy to reach, it get very few visitors, which means you will likely have it all to yourself.
Pro Tip – This is a good place to start a Seoul Wall hike. Across the street (south), you will see a set of stairs and another piece of the wall. This one goes along Naksan park and is a pleasant walk all year long. North is a bit more complicated but worth it as it heads towards Bukaksan Park and the best part of the wall. Also, Hyehwa Gate is a Pokemon Go gym… just FYI.
77) Tomb of Sejong the Great / 세종 대왕릉
The tomb to Korea’s greatest hero is located in Yeoju, which used to be a huge hassle to reach. However, since the opening of the Gyeonggang line, it is now connected to the Seoul Metro network (Sejongdae wangneung station). Before you get to the actual tomb, you are greeted with an interesting outdoor museum with replicas of Sejong’s accomplishments, and a modest museum to top it off.
Pro Tip – Most tombs, including this one, have small hikes that go through forested areas. If you plan to hike a bit (worth it), bring some bug spray or you’ll get mauled by mosquitoes in the spring-fall.
76) Hwangudan Altar, Gate, and Stone Drums / 환구단
The Hwangudan Altar is the last remaining structure of this complex built in 1897. The king himself used to come to the altar to help administer the ‘rite of heaven,’ a performance and 1000 year old tradition leading back to the Goryeo Dynasty. The ritual ensures that Korea will have a good harvest and luck the following year. As very few people know of its existence, you are likely to be the only one there.
The stone drums were built in 1902 to honor Emperor Gojong of Joseon, the last effective king of Korea. The use of stone is a sign of the art of the time, and is one of the few original relics of this era of the Joseon dynasty.
The Hwangudan gate is the doorway that leads to the altar of the same name and the stone drums. One fun fact is that until 2007, it was used as the door to a hotel because no one knew of its historical significance! Now, it is easily visible from City Hall, or if you have really good eyes, from Deoksu Palace.
Pro Tip – Looking to stay in a fancy shmancy hotel in Seoul? The Westin Chosun (one of Seoul’s best) is right next to this spot.
75) Cheongyecheon / 청계천
This small stream located in the heart of Seoul is a nice little getaway from the chaos of the busy city. The project was completed not too long ago, and it definitely has that modern feel. Walk along the bottom of the stream for a bit and you might run into some interesting art along the walls. During lantern season (May and November), the stream is also adorned with beautiful Buddhist lanterns and is by far the best time to visit.
Pro Tip – If you’re into biking, the eastern end of the river has some nice bike paths. There are even Seoul Bike stations along the way.
74) Play Doshi / 플레이 도시
This theme park just outside the city limits to the west is part water park, golf course, and my favorite, an indoor ski slope. The other two I can do without, but the ability to ski in the summer is pretty awesome. While the slope is pretty basic and rather short, it is really cheap with numerous discounts offered (check their website) and a great way to practice in the time leading to ski season.
Pro Warning – Their site is not working and while they are still operational, they may not be for long! Make sure to call 02-1330 (English tourism hotline) before devoting a trip out there.
73) Banpo Bridge Musical Rainbow Fountain / 반포대교 달빛무지개분수
This musical fountain has the distinction of being the longest in the world as it runs the length of the Banpo Bridge. It plays about 2-3 times per hour and rainbow lights flare it up at night. It has been called a top 10 fountain in the world and is definitely worth a look, especially on a nice summer night.
Pro Tip – Tons of bikers ride on the underside of the bridge and the north end is a popular spot to just chill and maybe get some snacks. Planning a picnic out of it is not a bad idea.
72) Gapyeong / 가평
Gapyeong is a town on the very outskirts of the greater Seoul area and a popular destination for Koreans. While I am not very fond of Nami Island, the food is divine and Gapyeong’s ‘Dalk Galbi’ rivals that of even Chuncheon, where the dish was invented. In addition to Namiseom, there is also a bungee jump and two zip lines for the adrenaline junkies out there.
Pro Tip – Gapyeong also has quite a few ATV courses and information as well as rentals can be found directly to your right side upon exiting the Gapyeong Train Station. There may not be information in English, but either the tourism hotline (02-1330) or the information booths near the station can hook you up. Totally worth it.
71) Tapgol Park / 탑골공원
Tapgol Park is a very small green space towards the southern end of Insadong. From the outside, it is very unassuming and you might even walk right next to it without noticing so take a good look at the map provided above. Older people like to go here to relax and indulge in a little Korean history which you might want to take part in after a full day of sight seeing and stuffing your face with amazing Korean food in Insadong. There are a few relics of note, including a large stone pagoda that sits at the rear of the park.
Pro Tip – As you can see from the picture, they adorn it with lanterns around Buddha’s birthday. Go in the evening right before closing if you want to see them light up.
70) Boshingak Belfry / 보신각 터
Jongno is the district containing the Bosingak Belfry, which is sometimes called the “Jonggak Bell” because of its proximity to Jonggak Station. In ancient times, the bell was rung to signify the opening or closing of the city gates, as well as emergencies that arose. These days, it is only rung every New Year’s by the mayor of Seoul, and occasionally, a top Buddhist monk. You can think of it like the crystal ball that drops in Times Square, but Korean style. While you can see it anytime, nothing beats the energy of being here on New Year’s Eve.
Pro Tip – No one really calls it the “Jonggak Bell” but me. Please don’t make a fool of yourself.
69) Sunshin Women’s University Area / 성신여대
This rather small commercial district in north eastern Seoul has tons of interesting shops and an ever growing number of restaurants. I lived not far from here and every time I tried to explore, I found something new and cool. Some finds include an ultra cheap arcade (300 won), one of the best deli sandwich spots in the entire city (The Sandwich House), and right off the station is the absolute best restaurant in all of Seoul: Taejo Kamjaguk / 태조감자국.
Pro Tip – Taejo Kamjaguk just opened up a second location, also in this area. The original is more of an outdoorsy spot, but the expansion is bigger and indoors. For the second one, take exit 1 and turn right into the main area (you’ll see it’s very busy). Go all the way down past 4 alleys and take a right onto your first actual street. It is on your right hand side before the light. If you leave Korea without trying Kamjaguk/Kamjatang, you haven’t been!
68) Bukaksan Park / 북악산 공원
Not to be confused with the national park, Buk-AK-san is a large city park directly behind the royal palace of Gyeongbokgung. Portions of the Seoul Wall run through it, and it is a great place to spend a spring day hiking through the bush.
Pro Tip – Bring your passport. A great hike along the wall goes through a restricted military zone, which requires identification. Also, they close early (around 4pm).
67) 63 Building / 63 빌딩
Once the tallest building in Korea, the 63 building is a beautifully golden tower overlooking the Han River. It signifies Korea’s rapid growth known as the Miracle on the Han. Within the building is an observation tower, art galleries, and its very own aquarium.
Pro Tip – Skip the aquarium and observation deck. Not worth it and grossly overpriced.
66) Seonjeongreung and Jeongreung / 선정릉 + 정릉
These tombs are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site – the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty. While there are better tombs in Seoul, these are the easiest to access for those on a time crunch. They are walking distance from Gangnam Station, and are also accessible thorugh their own subway stop: Seolleung Station. All of the Joseon Dynasty kings and queens are preserved in tombs like this one all over the greater Seoul area.
Pro Tip – It is free on the last Wednesday of May. Totally just saved you a buck.
65) Bukhansan National Park / 북한산 국립공원
Bukhansan is one of Korea’s 21 National Parks and by far the closest to Seoul. It is the perfect place to indulge in one of the biggest Korean pastimes: HIKING! You can enter from either the west or the east of the park, but I recommend the former as it is a more picturesque walk. There is also a cool hike that leads to a fortress gate that was part of a fortification during the Joseon era.
Pro Tip – Unless you like your hikes with 10 billion people rubbing shoulders, under no circumstances should you go during a national holiday. Also, if you plan to do some of the more rugged trails, bring bug spray.
64) Seoul Station (Old) / (옛날) 서울역
Old Seoul Station started operation more than 100 years ago, and is now a museum of sorts. It was re-opened a few years ago after years of refurbishing and is home to the occasional art collection and of course, a history lesson. It is located right next to the new station and serves as a symbol of Korea’s industrialization of the 20th century.
Pro Tip – The ‘art’ tends to lean more towards contemporary styles, which is why it is so far down the list (not my cup of tea). However, if a pile of old shoes is your kinda thing, you may rank this higher.
63) Taereung / 태릉
Taereung is the royal tomb of Queen Munjeong. While not particularly stellar compared to the other royal tombs, this one has an interesting museum that explains how the tombs are built, which is pretty neat. If you are into Korean history, you will find this tiny but informative museum quite fascinating. Given its location from central Seoul, none of the signs were in English, but one of the workers was delighted to show me around and translate.
Pro Tip – Unless you’re kind of a fanatic, this one falls into the “seen one, seen them all” pile when it comes to royal tombs. If you aren’t too keen, skip it and visit a different tomb a bit further up on the list.
62) Yeouido (bridges)/ 여의도
This ‘island’ literally means “useless” which was mainly due to going underwater every time the Han River overflowed. Since the Miracle at the Han, Yeouido has been the financial and government center of Seoul. Really, who cares about all that though. It’s real draw for me are the views from and of the bridges directly north and south of the island.
Pro Tip – Lots of yummy street food at Yeouido Park.
61) Trick Eye Museum / 트릭아이 뮤지엄
The Trick Eye Museum, Seoul is one of three such museums in the country . It contains a wide variety of paintings that produce a three-dimensional optical illusion when viewed (or photographed) from a certain angle. While I have been to other similar museums, I was pleasantly surprised at the maintenance, organization, and variety of this one, with plenty of room and explanations for each piece.
Pro Tip – In the past, I recommended the hanbok dress-up photo shoot offered at Trick Eye. While it is still nice, I would now instead recommend against it because there are better and cheaper alternatives (look at #1 below).
Continue on to #60-41
#60-41
60) Seoul Station (New) / (새) 서울역
Seoul Station is a large, modern facility and a major transportation hub from the capital to the rest of the country. One cool thing you can do is catch a glimpse (or ride) one of the 300kph KTX bullet trains. You don’t even have to get a ticket to get some good views if you don’t want to ride. Recently, they have remodeled a lot of the interior and added a ton of restaurants. They have also streamlined the transfer from the Seoul Station subway station into the Arex airport train through an underground connection. Can you tell I f’n love train stations?
Pro Tip – You can access the newly built Seoullo from here, but I am not recommending it until the hype dies down as it is grossly underwhelming for the crowds. Nevertheless, it is a good place to get pictures of the station or the main road.
59) Unhyeon Palace (Unhyeogung) / 운현궁
Located near Anguk station, it is quite amazing how few people visit this tiny but delightful place. It was originally built during the Joseon Dynasty for the in-laws of the king to stay in Seoul without having them in the main palace which is across the street (I guess THAT tradition goes back generations). It is not very glamorous at all, but has a tranquility to it that is quite refreshing. Oh, and it’s free!
One pretty cool thing is that they allow wedding pictures to be taken here. From the signs within Unhyeongung, it also looks like full weddings are allowed under certain conditions. Who doesn’t want to get married in an actual palace?
Pro Tip – The area just outside of this palace is probably the absolute best place to stay if you’re looking to be as central as possible to most attractions. Plenty of hostels and hotels around.
58) Apgujeong Rodeo Street / 압구정
Apgujeong is a place where young people come together and shop till they drop. Dozens of boutiques and chain stores have anything your heart desires. If this is your thing, by all means, don’t miss out, but make sure you bring plenty of credit cards! If you stay late there are some nightlife spots here, too.
57) Lotte World / 롯데 월드
Lotte World is one of only two ‘world class amusement parks’ in Korea. Yeah, I didn’t know that classification existed either, but it does! While nowhere near the size, magnitude, or detail of Disneyland, Lotte World has its charms.
One of the things I like the most about this park is how efficiently it was built (what a nerd). Real Estate comes at a premium in such a small country, so the engineers managed to load up a bunch of rides in a 4-floor indoor complex and an additional outdoor adjunct which has parts of the park run underground! The rides are pretty fun even if the mascots are rather cheesy. Then again, who thought a mouse as a mascot would be a hit?
Pro Tip: Discounts are often offered with coupons at the airport so don’t be afraid to ask the information booths at Incheon.
56) Hangang Park (Ttukseom Resort) / 한강 공원 (뚝섬유원지)
Hangang Park is a name loosely applied to the entire recreational area north and south of the Han River, with about a dozen entry points and some parts more “park-like” than others. Ttukseom resort is one of the more popular spots, especially in the summer. You can rent bicycles, watch live performances, enjoy the public pool, or just take a stroll along the river. Another good spot is on the south side by the Banpo Bridge, where you can view the before mentioned Banpo Musical Fountain.
While Hangang park is busy all day long, it is especially enjoyable late at night when the crowds have dispersed. If you are comfortable ordering in Korean, delivery places are more than happy to bring you some chicken or pizza, riverfront!
Pro Tip – While places where you can rent a bike with cash still exist, the Seoul Bike share system is quickly taking over. Make an account and you can pick up and drop off a bike at different locations if you choose.
55) Everland /에버랜드
Everland is Korea’s best amusement park bar none. With a mixture of fantasy land reminiscent of Disneyland and more ‘adult level’ rides as well, it kind of has something for everyone.
Pro Tip – There are often employees outside of the gates who come off as scammers at first glance. If they have an official looking uniform, they could just be telling you about discounts.
54) World Cup Stadium /월드컵경기장
This is more of an event than the place, but if you get a chance, make sure to watch a game at Seoul’s (or any) World Cup Stadium. Built for the 2002 World Cup co-hosted by Korea and Japan, the World Cup Stadiums around the country currently host the Korean League and regularly host friendly as well as official matches between the national team and its neighbors. The energy of the stadium is pretty fantastic and tickets are usually pretty cheap.
Pro Tip – Most major cities including Daejeon, Busan, Incheon and even Jeju have a world cup stadium. It might be a good idea to check out the K-League’s schedule and plan accordingly.
53) Any Korean Department Store (Shinsegae, Hyundai, Lotte) / 백화점
Once you’ve seen one mall you’ve seen them all right? While a Korean department store is not particularly different from those in other countries, it is still interesting to see. Department stores have absolutely everything from higher end goods, to supermarkets, to incredible discount stores. Just browse around and give yourself plenty of time. It’s a great place to people watch too.
52) National Museum of Korean Contemporary History / 대한민국 역사 박물관
The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History was inaugurated on December, 2012 as a semi-interactive way to display the last fifty years or so of Korean history. It is conveniently located on Sejong-no, right in front of Gyeongbok Palace. If you are curious about how Korea developed after the Korean War to the creation of the Galaxy S3, this is the museum for you.
Pro Tip – Directly adjacent is the tiniest ‘park’ in the world, but right in front of Gyeongbokgung, so a nice place for a picnic or just to chill with a coffee after getting museumed out.
51) Dongwon Market / 동원시장
One thing you don’t see very often in guide books are town ‘markets’ outside of the very well known ones like Namdaemun. For a very local experience, roam around some of the smaller ones outside of the city center. You won’t find anything touristy here or even souvenirs and the like, but just older Koreans going about their day and buying their household necessities.
Pro Tip – Dongwon is my choice, mainly for a nameless restaurant (the sign literally just says ‘restaurant’) which has the best Jeyuk Bbeoggeum on the planet.
50) Sinsa Shopping District (Garosu Street) / 신사 가로수길
Sinsa is one of the major shopping areas of Seoul. Conveniently located between Gangnam and Apgujeong, Sinsa focuses on a more boutique-like feel, but also contains many chain-stores and fine dining options. Because if its fame and location south of the Han River, it carries a heftier price tag than other places in Seoul. Nonetheless, is a good way to spend an afternoon, even if you are just window shopping like me. I’m not gonna lie… I just come for the free samples.
Pro Tip – The colors of the fall really make this road look way better.
49) Seodaemun Prison / 서대문형무소역사관
During the Japanese occupation, Seodaemun Prison was used to lock up dissidents and pretty much anyone who refused to accept the new status quo. Those brave people who dared to stand up to the brutality that included forced prostitution, murder, and the destruction of anything culturally Korean (including all of the palaces) are honored in this preserved prison. Make sure to bring a Korean to translate as there are no English signs of any kind. You might also want to bring some tissues. You’ve been warned.
Pro Tip – It really helps to read up on the Japanese atrocities during the occupation to get the full effect.
48) Lotte World Tower and Mall / 롯데월드타워 + 몰
Currently the 5th tallest building in the world, the Lotte World Tower can be seen from virtually anywhere with a clear view in a 20 km radius of the building. Connected to it is the Lotte World Mall which is a very interesting and unusual mall complete with one day cooking classes, random parades, and a Lexus concept vehicle cafe.
47) Seongbuk-dong / 성북동
This is one of the wealthier districts of Seoul. It houses many bigger homes along with the residences of many foreign ambassadors. Lots of rather unique cafes, restaurants, and unusual attractions (such as the stone museum listed below) can be found as well.
46) Sinchon, Yonsei University Area / 신촌
In addition to being one of the top 3 universities in Korea, Yonsei also has one of the most happening areas right across its front gate. The Sinchon area is a great place for food, shopping, and nightlife. Be careful though… nah, what am I saying… go nuts!
Pro Tip – The area is particularly crackin’ during rivalry games with pesky Korea University.
45) Archaeological Findings of Jongno
This is probably my favorite new entry to the list. During the construction of the Grand Seoul Plaza in central Jong-no, workers stumbled upon what seemed to be ancient artifacts. Closer surveys proved it to be a massive area littered with Joseon dynasty pottery, weaponry, and building fragments. Instead of moving everything into a museum or making the area a museum itself, construction resumed but they made large parts of the ground level into glass so that visitors could get their shopping and history in at the same time. It is pretty amazing how so much history lay right below central Seoul for centuries without anyone realizing it.
Pro Tip – If you plan on visiting Jongno and Sejong-ro / Gyeongbokgung, instead of taking the subway, just walk and you’ll run into this on the way! It is a short walk and well worth it.
44) Itaewon / 이태원
Itaewon is one of the largest international neighborhoods of Seoul. You can find foods of all kinds here, from authentic Mexican to Paraguayan delights. As a long term critic of Itaewon, even I have come around and the Itaewon of 5 years ago is nothing compared to the Itaewon of today. While sure, dive bars, the red light district, and sketchy spots still exist, an enormous boom in dozens of quality restaurants from all over the world and good bars/clubs account for the big boost in this year’s list.
Pro Tip – Be mentally prepared that getting a cab from 12:30-4am is near impossible. Either that, or become familiar with Kakao Taxi because 90% of the cabs you see will say “reserved / 예약” and you’re just gonna get mad!
43) Dongmyo Market / 동묘 시장
Even a few years ago, this was nothing more than a local marketplace you only stumbled upon if you are already in the area (as I did back in 2012). It has been recently popularized by a few Korean shows and is definitely worth a look. It is less trendy and more of an old market with necessities but it changes every year. Antiques are the name of the game here, with anything from traditional Korean instruments to vintage US post machines available if the price is right.
Pro Tip – One question I often get is “What souvenir is unique to Korea?” My generic response is usually a hanbok, Andong mask, or name stamp. However, if you want something really unusual, look no further than a gayageum or gomongo, traditional Korean instruments. They can go for around 100,000 won in Dongmyo for second hand ones (but really, sky is the limit), which to me is kind of special because they carry a history.
42) Bukchon Hanok Village / 북촌
My first visit to Bukchon, I fell in love. This otherwise ordinary neighborhood is lined with some of the most beautiful traditional ‘hanok style’ houses still around. For those looking for a special kind of accommodation, Bukchon also has a number of hanok guesthouses, conveniently located walking distance from Changdeok Palace and Insadong. Come in the early evening, and you might catch a fantastic sunset, and then have dinner in one of the many excellent restaurants in the area.
41) Jong-no 3Ga / 종로 3가
This older part of Jong-no is located adjacent to the “music district” where you can find any kind of musical instrument you can think of at a reasonable price. While that’s kinda cool, the main reason I recommend it is the street food. Dozens of tents pop up from the late afternoon till the late evening serving skewers galore. All kinds of people show up from families with small children to old couples enjoying a few skewers over the fire. Since this isn’t a very touristy area, bring your translator app… or person.
Continue on to #40-21
#40-21
40) Yongsan Electronics Market / 용산 전자 상가
Many foreigners come expecting electronics to be cheap, given Korea’s reputation as a leader in the industry. They are not and you will find even domestic brands such as Samsung more expensive than abroad. However, the magnitude of hundreds of electronic shops in such a small place itself is something you have to see to believe.
Pro Tip: While buying electronics is expensive, services such as fixing a computer or camera cleaning is relatively cheap in Korea. I fixed my old Asus laptop here for $30 after being quoted over $200 in the US.
39) Jong-no 1Ga & 2Ga / 종로 1가 & 2가
Jongno is another district of Seoul with fantastic Korean food, entertainment, and all around good times. Whether you’re in the mood for churros, jjim dalk, or a game of beer pong, Jongno is ready to deliver. It is also in close proximity to historical sites like the Boshingak Belfry and the very pretty Cheongye Stream. After a full day of palace viewing, walk on over to Jongno to wrap up the night.
This year, I’ve split up Jong-no into two areas because it is just massive and being more specific made sense.
38) Bukdaemun / Sukjeongmun / 숙정문
While lots of people have heard of Namdaemun and Dongdaemun, few have heard of the third remaining great gate of Seoul. Bukdaemun, also known as Sukjeongmun, is located in Bukaksan park (not to be confused with Bukhansan National Park), on the north side of the Seoul Wall. One of the things that makes this gate interesting is that you have to go through a military checkpoint just to see it!
It is believed that the 1968 assassination attempt of the South Korean president by North Korean agents was carried out after they got a good view of the presidential house from Bukdaemun. Imagine if there was a big tourist attraction on a hill directly behind the White House, and you can see how this could be a real security threat. Make sure to bring your ID or your passport as they will not let you enter otherwise.
Pro Tip – Want to see the gate but kind of lazy to hike all the way from Seongbuk-dong? Take a cab (or drive) here. This is the shortest possible hike to the gate. When there is a lazy need, there is a lazy way.
37) Gyeonghui Palace (Gyeonghuigung) / 경희궁
Gyeonghuigung is one of the five great palaces of the Joseon Dynasty which was unfortunately destroyed during the Japanese occupation. It has been recently rebuilt and although smaller than the original, it is still an interesting place to visit away from the crowds. If you are into those off the beaten paths, look no further than Gyeonghuigung.
Pro Tip – It is connected through a walking path directly behind the Seoul Museum of History. It’s a good idea to just swing by after you’re done in the museum.
36) Kansong Art and Culture Collection / 간송 문화 재단
This private museum in Songbuk-dong, Seoul contains what many consider to be some of the most important relics of ancient Korea. They include the Hunminjeongeum, the original manuscript detailing the formation of the Korean language from the 15th century AND the Thousand Crane Vase (pictured above), popularized to English audiences by Linda Sue Park’s novel A Single Shard.
Every year, the Dongdaemun DDP Plaza holds an exhibit with part of the Kansong Art and Culture Collection, similar to the partial display they do every season in their own museum. It is said that the collection is too massive to display in either location, giving further incentive to visit more than once.
Pro Tip – This year, from April 13, 2017 – October 12, 2017, the DDP is hosting an exhibit of the Hunminjeongeum mentioned above, and the equally important Nanjungilgi, the memoirs of Admiral Yi Sun Shin. Both of these are rarely displayed, and lets just say I read about this 10 minutes ago and I am going tomorrow. Possibly the best collection displayed in the last decade.
35) Korean Stone Art Museum / 우리 옛돌 박물관
This museum underwent an expansion and reopening in 2016. It is a bit pricey at 7,000 won, but totally worth it considering the sheer amount of pieces they possess. Located in Seongbuk-dong, it gets an additional serene ambiance in contrast to the fast-pace rest of the city.
Oh yeah, about the museum! A local enthusiast has spent over four decades collecting stone works from all over the country. Totems big and small are displayed in the fantastic indoor and outdoor museum which you will likely have to share with only a handful of visitors.
34) Dongdaemun Design Plaza / DDP / 동대문 디자인 플라자
This weirdly shaped building in the middle of Seoul is the work of Zaha Hadid, a world renowned British-Iraqi architect who recently passed away. The amorphous structure is kind of interesting to look at and regularly hosts a ton of exhibitions from the Kansong collection (April-October, 2017) to a Pixar exhibition (April-August, 2017). Even if you don’t know what you’re looking for, just swing by and I’m sure you’ll find something you like.
Pro Tip – There has been a recent trend of food trucks in the area (Friday and Saturday) which is pretty neat. If you don’t see them outside because it is winter, they will likely be inside the DDP as they were last winter.
33) Dongdaemun History and Culture Park / 동대문 역사문화 공원
The subway stop formerly known as “Dongdaemun Stadium” was renamed upon the stadium’s demolition and an astonishing discovery that threw everyone for a loop. A large section of the original Seoul Wall was uncovered underneath the rubble. This part was like none of the other remaining parts as it had flood gates perfectly preserved. To an archaeology buff, there are few things more amazing than finding a 600 year old part of history.
Pro Tip – If you’re here in the summer, there are food trucks right outside. Besides the food, which is hit and miss, the summer nights in this area are pretty nice to just walk around and snack.
32) Konguk University Area / 건대
The Kongguk university area, or Kongdae for short, is one of the largest commercial districts in all of Seoul. Its abundance of college students (I make them sound like a natural resource) also means that there are plenty of places to have a great meal or drinks on a budget. With some places offering all you can drink cocktails for a mere $15 USD, this place just can’t be beat. Join the hundreds of young people any day of the week and you’ll surely have a great time.
31) Jongmyo Shrine / 종묘
Jongmyo is a Confucian Shrine holding the spirits of every Joseon King since the dynasty’s formation in 1392. Every May, there is a huge festival known as Jerye / Daerye with performances, parades, and ritual offerings. This tradition has gone nearly uninterrupted for six centuries. On regular days, entry to this UNESCO World Heritage site is by guided tour only as there are very few explanations (if any) throughout the entire complex.
Pro Tip – Read up on the history of Jongmyo or it will feel incredibly boring… trust me.
30) Seoul Wall / 서울 도시성
The Seoul Wall was initially built at the turn of the 15th century by the first kings of the Joseon dynasty. Back then, building a huge wall around your city was all the rage and everyone was doing it, so why not Seoul! Many sections still remain or have been refurbished in a push to restore Korean historical structures in the last few decades. My favorite part of the wall is directly west of the Hyehwa gate in northern Seoul. It is a bit tricky to reach, but the location on the map (provided on the first page of this post) points to this section of the wall. It is up for consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage site in a year or two.
29) N. Seoul Tower / N. 서울 타워
Namsan Seoul Tower is the best place to get a good panoramic view of Seoul. The tower is built on the top of Namsan Mountain. To get to the entrance, many guidebooks will tell you to take the cable cart to the summit, a terrible idea. The line is 2 hours long (if you’re lucky) and the real view is from the top of the tower anyways, so don’t waste your time and money. The best way to get up there is to take one of the ‘Namsan’ buses (green color) off of Chungmuro Station (or Hoehyeon). They are much faster (10 minute wait), cheaper (1 USD), and environmentally friendly (electric). Conversely, you could also hike up to the summit, which is an excellent walk along parts of the Seoul Wall. This is a good activity to do late at night at it is open till midnight on Friday and Saturday. Bring your significant other though, as this site pushes the couple feel a bit much.
Pro Tip – While the spring is very pleasant, it is also yellow dust season and the air can go from unpleasant to downright toxic. Namsan tower lights up blue, green, yellow, and red to correspond with good, average, bad, and very bad air respectively. Kind of a neat quick check.
28) Deoksu Palace / Deoksugung / 덕수궁
The newest and most complete of the five great palaces of Seoul is Deoksugung, located next to city hall. This palace was the residence of choice for the last Joseon emperor, and his self-proclaimed “Great Han Empire.” In a bid to modernize Korea, European style architecture was introduced across the country and this royal home was no exception. One of the central buildings that looks strange and out of place with its Greek-like columns is in fact, original.
27) Namhansanseong Fortress / 남한산성
Namhansanseong is a mountain fortress and a recently added UNESCO World Heritage Site located south-east of Seoul. The site has been famous since the 7th century as the birthplace of King Onjo, first monarch of the Baekje Kingdom. The wall we see today was built in the 17th century and was the place of a heroic battle against the invading Manchus. While it is becoming more and more popular, most people stick to the small village located within the fortress with has some awesome Korean delights.
Pro Tip – The west side of the wall heading uphill is the least traveled and most people don’t bother to scale the actual wall at all.
26) Jogye Temple (Jogye-sa) / 조계사
As the head of Korean Zen Buddhism, Jogyesa is considered to be the most important temple in Seoul, despite not being one of the three jewel temples. While not remote or as elaborate as Haeinsa, the main hall and its golden Buddhas are stunning. During Buddhist holidays, many lanterns decorate the entire place and there is even a huge parade that leads to it on Buddha’s birthday. Despite being in central Seoul and right next to Insadong (later on the list), it is not as crowded as you would expect. If you are interested in a ‘Templestay,’ the headquarters for the program is located across the street.
Pro Tip – The temple is technically closed at night but if you’re being respectful and very quiet, the guard will let you walk around. Just be mindful not to use flash photography and use your super indoor voice.
25) Seoul Museum of History / 서울 역사 박물관
This centuries old city had a very interesting history which is beautifully captured in this museum. The most impressive exhibits are the two full city miniatures on the second floor which give you a sense of just how massive the megalopolis really is.
Pro Tip – The current special exhibition is about the life in the shanty town on the Cheonggyecheon Stream during the 1960s. This is one of those really forgotten parts of recent history which you could also learn more about in the Cheonggyecheon museum, located here.
24) Donggureung / 동구릉
Donggureung is one of the 18 sites forming the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty, but by far the most impressive. The complete set of 40 tombs has been preserved despite the Japanese colonization. The story goes that during Japan’s attempt at culturally liquidating Korea, the entrusted grave-keepers lied and insisted they were tombs of their direct family. The trick worked, and today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site remains intact.
23) Namdaemun Gate / Sungnyemun / 숭례문
The Southern Gate of Seoul, also known as Namdaemun or Sungnyemun is classified as historical treasure #1, so we can determine with certainty that they were not numbered in alphabetical order! Lame jokes aside, this gate is the largest of the remaining six great gates of Seoul. In 2008, the wooden tower that sits on top was burned down by an act of arson. As of May of 2013 it had been repaired and reopened to the public. I was actually interviewed at the reopening, but didn’t see myself on TV :(.
22) Noryangjin Fish Market / 노량진 수산 시장
Located off of Noryangjin Station, this famous fish market is a depot for some of the freshest seafood around. Ever seen shark heads or wanted to try manta ray? Maybe the freshest salmon around is of your liking? Pretty much any local and edible type of seafood is available and if you are so inclined, there are tons of places just one floor up to eat your recent purchase immediately. My experience in Noyrangjin made a huge impression and my stomach can’t wait to go back.
21) Seoul Medicinal Market and Gyeongdong Market / 서울 약 령 시장 & 경동 시장
Seoul Medicinal Market, located in Jegi-dong, sells ginseng, mushrooms, and other herbs used in ‘eastern medicine.’ It is a historical market that has been around for at least 500 years and is the largest in Korea. The Gyeongdong market is less specialized and sells anything from medicine to shoes to groceries. It is a great place to try some fantastic Korean food and street vendors are abundant. It is hard not to group these as they are adjacent to each other and it is difficult to see where one ends and the other begins.
Continue on to #20-1
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20) Hyehwa’s Daehak-ro / University Street / 혜화 대학로
Hyehwa is an area famous for its dozens of theaters making it one of the artistic centers of Seoul. Unfortunately, very few plays are in English, but that doesn’t mean Hyehwa has nothing to offer. You can often see some abstract art sculptures, galleries, and even the odd street performance right off the subway exit. In recent years, it has also opened up a good variety of foreign food restaurants including Italian, Chinese, Indian, Mexican, American (breakfast / burgers), Thai, Japanese, and even a Turkish spot in one of the alleys. If you come for dinner, there are a number of interesting bars for a crowd that prefers to chill with a beer instead of going hard all night long. My personal favorite is the “junk bar” (not the actual name of the bar) which seems to have slapped their decorations together with what they found in a dumpster, from mattress coils to really old liquor bottles. Definitely an odd but interesting place to have a beer.
Pro Tip – Eat street food here. It is cheaper and better than Myeongdong.
19) Dongdaemun Gate / Heunginjimun / 동대문
The Big Eastern Gate (‘dong’ means east, ‘dae’ means big, ‘mun’ means ‘gate’…you’re already learning Korean!) is the second largest remaining doorway to the previously walled city of Seoul. The rear has a fortress loop which was used as an additional sentry station. For more than 600 years, it has left visitors in awe, and I predict you will be no different. There is a Seoul Wall Museum nearby too if you are so inclined.
Pro Tip – While Namdaemun looks prettier at night, this one actually looks better during the day.
18) National Folk Museum of Korea / 국립 민속 박몰관
The National Folk Museum displays a brief history of Korea since the dawn of humanity on the peninsula till the end of the Great Korean Empire in 1911. Its location within Gyeongbok Palace adds to the convenience and the entrance is hard to miss given its towering and beautiful pagoda is visible from pretty much anywhere within the palace.
Pro Tip – Pressed for time and don’t plan on visiting the National Museum of Korea? This is an acceptable substitute.
17) Dongdaemun Market / 동대문 시장
Dongdaemun Market is a combination of indoor and outdoor markets located around the Dongdaemun gate in central Seoul. It is famous for having some of the cheapest clothes around to fit everyone’s shopping needs. It also has quite a few shops that are open 24 hours, so if you feel like shopping at 3am, by all means, Dongdaemun Market awaits.
Pro Tip – Want to take a hanbok home? Dongdaemun’s underground plaza has the cheapest ones around and can even tailor one to your size at a relatively reasonable price (by hanbok standards).
16) Sejong and Admiral Yi Museums / 세종이야기 & 이순신이야기
I am constantly surprised at how many don’t even know this place exists. King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun Shin are the two greatest heroes in Korean history. So, where are their museums? Shouldn’t they be in the center of the city for all to see? Turns out, they are! The museums are located underground, directly beneath their famous statues on “Sejong Street.” This area is always filled with people, but their museums are never crowded. I think no one knows where the entrance is!
To get inside, take the seemingly unimportant door behind the golden statue of King Sejong. Of note is a replica of Yi’s turtle ship, a 4D movie about Admiral Yi’s battles against the Japanese, and you can even be taught to write your name in Korean with calligraphy brushes, all for free! In addition, foreigners are allowed to write their name twice so they can leave one there, and take one as a souvenir.
Pro Tip – You might leave the museum thinking PROPAGANDA and some (non-Korean) experts do say Sejong gets a lot of credit for what was done by a number of scholars. However, Yi Sun Shin is the real deal, and this cool animated video explains it all.
15) Changgyeong Palace / 창경궁
Changgyeonggung is another one of the five great palaces of Seoul. While it has always served as secondary to Gyeongbokgung or Changdeokgung, it is nonetheless impressive. Like Changdeok, it also has a garden out back where visitors can go on a hike and forget that they are in the middle of one of the most populated cities in the world.
There is one incredibly weird feature that kind of blew me away. There is a huge stone jar out in the garden that was used to store the umbilical cords and other gooey fetal fluids from the royal children for generations. As far as I can tell, this was never destroyed by the Japanese, and might in fact, still be original. That’s some pretty nasty history right there.
Pro Tip – Best time to go is the spring, where you can see cherry blossoms and other flowers by the border of Changdeokgung Palace towards the back. Also, if you’re lucky, you may see some Royal Ducks.
14) Gangnam Shopping District / 강남대로
Gangnam literally means “south of the river” pointing to its geographical position relative to the Han River. It is one of the busiest commercial districts of Seoul, popularized worldwide by the god-awful song, “Gangnam Style.” Despite my personal objections to that tune, the district is a great place for shopping, finding a great restaurant, or having a few drinks. If clubs are your thing, just off of the main Gangnam strip are a number of bars and clubs to shake it all night long, including Octagon, ranked the #6 best club in the world a few years ago. Make sure to come with a full wallet as Gangnam tends to cater to the wealthier Seoul crowd.
13) Bongeun Temple (Bongeun-sa) / 봉은사
Bongeunsa is a Buddhist temple in southern Seoul that has a history spanning over 1000 years. One of its best features is the huge Buddha on the north-west side which towers above the surrounding area. English ‘Templestays‘ are available as well tours and daily tea ceremonies. The time around Buddha’s birthday (April-May) is great time visit when the complex is adorned by beautiful paper lanterns.
12) Namdaemun Market / Namdaemun Sijang / 남대문시장
Namdaemun Market is Korea’s most famous and oldest traditional marketplace. The main alley (directly out of Hoehyeon Station Exit 5) is the most crowded and leads directly to Namdaemun Gate. It is a gastronomical wonderland, but can seem a little intimidating to Korean food beginners. Make sure to come on an empty stomach, don’t be afraid to experiment, and for a little guidance, take this list of the best Korean foods to know what to look for.
The side alleys are your best bet for more food options and awesome deals for anything from souvenirs, to pots and pans (yes, really). Don’t be afraid to haggle when buying things in bulk (especially gifts), but in general, the prices will already be pretty reasonably priced and Korea doesn’t make a habit of trying to rip off foreigners. You are unlikely to get more than a 10-15% discount. If you are looking for a hanbok, you can probably find a cheap one (relatively speaking) here, too.
Pro Tip – While the big buildings surrounding the outside market look abandoned, they are probably the best places to get a good deal on knick-knacks for your family.
11) Insadong / 인사동
The long road known as Insadong was first commissioned to be a place for artists to display their works and sell traditional Korean art in the form of calligraphy, paintings and carved masks a little over a decade ago. As time went on, many shopkeepers realized that visitors were far more keen on buying key chains and chopsticks, than their art. While the original products remained, they became a front for the far more booming “knick-knack” industry. Since this area has special tax breaks for the purpose of promoting Korean culture, the government was not too happy.
In the last two years or so, Insadong has begun to clean up its act with art galleries (most of which are free) and the traditional arts sold side by side with the souvenir shops. One personal favorite is an old master calligrapher who sets up shop in the middle of the street. He always draws a crowd with his skills, so it is hard to miss him.
Pro Tip: Namdaemun Market has the same souvenirs for cheaper. If you must shop here though, buy from the side streets as the price difference is enormous.
Pro Tip 2: There is a guy who regularly ‘busks,’ I guess you can say, by making large calligraphy writings for people. This is quite a spectacle to watch and legend has it (read, some random dude told me) that he was once a calligraphy master.
10) Myeongdong Shopping District / 명동
Of all the main shopping districts of Seoul, Myeongdong best portrays the hyper-shopping culture that is present in modern day Korea. If you have ever seen pictures of Seoul, and there is a very busy street with a million neon signs, shopping galore, and just insane crowds, you probably saw Myeongdong. There are dozens of international chain stores (Zara, Mango, Uniqlo, H&M) as well as smaller boutiques and cheaper outside stalls selling everything from scarves to cosmetics to chicken on a stick.
The symbolism of this area is something of note too. While it is difficult to believe now, as late as the 1980s, the US was beginning to doubt it backed the right Korea. Poverty was up, democracy was still not implemented (military dictatorship), and in many ways, the South seemed to be lagging behind the North! In just 30 years following the “Miracle on the Han” South Korea has become one of the world’s top 15 economic powerhouses. While it might be the ’63 building’ that symbolizes that growth, it is in reality, places like Myeongdong that continuously display prosperity.
Pro Tip – Street food has variety but is more expensive here than anywhere else.
9) Hwaseong Fortress / 화성
About an hour south of Seoul (or a couple of minutes by bullet train) is Suwon City, which holds the majestic Hwaseong Fortress. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the best preserved city wall in Korea. You can walk along its nearly 6km circumference in this mini-version of the great one in China. Some of its best features are the water gate, incredible tile art in the center, and the archery sessions going on every day on the north east corner.
Pro Tip – The archery is pretty cool and if you go in the early evening, groups of serious Korean archers shoot at targets 50 meters away. It is pretty cool to watch, especially after struggling to even hit a 10 meter target.
8) Changdeok Palace / Changdeokgung /창덕궁
Pro Tip – While individually amazing, many of the royal palaces look similar. If you have a limited amount of time, stick to this one and #1 on the list.
7) Sejong Street: Monuments to King Sejong, Admiral Yi, and Gwanghwamun Square / 세종로, 광화문광장
This is probably one of the most iconic photo-op spots in Seoul. On this street are the monuments to the country’s two greatest heroes: King Sejong the Great, and Admiral Yi Sun Shin. From one point, you can see the two monuments, the gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, and Bukaksan Mountain in the background (pictured).
Who is King Sejong the Great?
King Sejong the Great is credited with the invention of Hangeul, the Korean writing system. In the 1400s, Koreans used Chinese script, but Sejong sought to create a simpler system which eventually resulted in this: ㅂㅈㄷㄱㅅㅁㄴㅇㄹ. Modern Korean is phonetic, logical, and easy to pick up the basics as a result. Hangeul continues to be the only wide spread language scripts in the world that can be traced back so a single person.
Who is Admiral Yi?
Have you ever heard of the Mongol Genghis Khan or Sun Tzu, author of The Art of War? Some people consider Yi Sun Shin to be a greater military commander than either of them. He skillfully helped design and used the famed ‘turtle ships’ to repel Japanese forces. His most incredible accomplishment came in the Battle of Myeongnyang where he defeated 333 Japanese warships with his 13 turtle ships, saving Seoul from a Japanese invasion.
6) The War Memorial of Korea / 전쟁념관
The outdoor part of the War Memorial Museum is best seen in the daylight as there are many airplanes, tanks, artillery, and even a ship from the era of the Korean War. The sheer number of relics is extremely impressive. The interior of the museum holds relics and demonstrations going back since the beginning of humanity appearing on the Korean peninsula. There are stone weapons that were used in the Neolithic era, and an eye popping amount of ‘evidence’ proving why ‘Japan is so evil.’ Despite the rhetoric, it is truly fascinating, detailing events of conflict with Japan, North Korea, and internal struggles over the millennia. Definitely another must see in Seoul.
5) Hongik University Area (Hongdae) / 홍대
This is the best place to experience Korean nightlife. The area surrounding Hongik University (shortened to ‘Hongdae’) is full of bars, dance clubs, restaurants, street food, and more outdoor performances than all of Busan combined. If you feel the need to go hard until 10 in the morning, this is the place to do it.
Pro Tip – Bring your passport, they card everyone.
4) Gwangjang Traditional Market / 광장 시장
The centrally located Gwangjang market is one of the more interesting destinations in Seoul. It has been gaining popularity these days with foreigners, but still retains its authentic charms. The two main things you will find here are textiles and food. Walk around for a bit to work out an appetite and check out the thousands of hanboks (the traditional Korean attire) on display. The best thing about this market is definitely the food, though, not gonna lie! They have colorfully named “Mayak” kimbap (Mayak means ‘narcotic’), and definitely, the best kimchi dumplings you will ever taste. On my most recent visit, I also tried some of the communal seafood dishes (served for 2 people or more) which was fantastic.
3) National Museum of Korea / 국립 중앙 박물관
This massive museum holds some of the most important treasures in Korean history. The complex is very well organized in chronological order from bottom to top. It starts with the story of Korea from the Paleolithic era when humans first arrived on the peninsula. From there, it takes us forward in time to the first dynasties, all the way to the end of the Joseon Dynasty in 1911. The top floor has a solid collection of Buddhist art as Buddhism was very influential throughout Korea’s long history. The outside of the complex also has many original stone lanterns that have stood for over a thousand years. While there is nothing on the era of Japanese occupation (1911-1945), the Korean War (1950-1953), or modern Korea, the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History and the War Memorial of Korea fill in those gaps. If you take a trip to Seoul, this museum is a must.
Pro Tip – For special exhibits, events, and tours, check out the National Museum of Korea’s official site. Many times, the special exhibit is better than the main museum itself.
2) DMZ (De-Militarized-Zone) / 한반도비무장지대
For those of you who live under a rock, the DMZ is the 4 km wide line dividing the DPRK and South Korea. Despite its name, the DMZ is the most heavily guarded border in the world, separating two countries that are culturally, historically, and ethnically homogeneous, but philosophically and politically worlds apart.
Access to the DMZ is by tour only with the highlight being the Joint Security Area. Seriously, the tour is not even worth it without the JSA part. After a very intense briefing by a US military officer, you will be led to the literal line that divides North and South. It is an area on the DMZ without a fence, barbed wire, landmines, and one only needs to take a few steps to be behind enemy lines. This is where the famed blue buildings stand, the UN meeting place to broker deals between the two countries as they have no official diplomatic relations.
Pro Tip – Having visited the DMZ twice, I definitely recommend the USO tour above any other.
…but of course, there can only be one #1. So, the best place to visit in all of Seoul is….
1) Gyeongbok Palace / Gyeongbokgung / 경복궁
Gyeongbokgung is (still) the absolute best thing to see in Seoul. As you cross the main gate of Gwanghwamun, you enter the most beautiful palace in Korea. It is a recently rebuilt replica, but the original palace was built in 1395 and was the King’s home until its destruction during the Japanese invasion of 1592.
Every 2 hours, there is a changing of the guards which always draws big crowds. There are often free performances inside as well as galleries and a large museum to keep you busy. Keeping up with tradition, the ‘jar room’ which was used to ferment and store fresh food, is still in use today.
If you were to see a single thing in Seoul, I would recommend this one. However, seeing how you now know how awesome the city is, I am sure you will stay just a tad longer.
Pro Tip – This year, dressing up in a hanbok while entering the palace has really taken off and you really should get in on it. Directly to the west of the palace, near Gwanghwamun Station, there will be a few rental shops for 2 hrs or more at around 10,000 won (starting). Worth it!